I pulled the plug out with a screwdriver and a needle nose plier.
The hardest thing was routing the plug wire so it did not get tangled. I put one in my TC33D last winter it took about 15min the directions were very good.
Make sure when you insert the heater that it is not against the engine block on the inside. Look at the block and find a drain plug for coolant, do this when engine is cold so not to get burned. I'd say what Mark told you is about right but here's a couple of little notes to go with to. If it starts to recede into the block you may have to resort to a drill and maybe a big self tapping sheet metal screw that you can then use to extract the plug. I would start with a sharpened flat screwdriver to punch a keyhole to pry with later. Might actually be a bit easier on a tractor because of the removable access panels on the engine.
They are much easier to install than they are to remove. It came out in pieces but it did come out. Last time I did one (on a gas engine) there was a lot of prying, puncturing and a few bad words. Anybody had any experience with this that could give me some pointers on getting the plug out? I have to pull one of the freeze plugs to install it. On a weak battery, that might make a difference.Picked up a block heater from my TC33D. That means if you don't wait until the light goes out, you will load the battery with both the glow plugs and the starter. At least on the Class III Boomers the glow plugs will stay energized while the starter is running if the glow plug timer relay has not timed out. I checked on my tractor before leaving for work this morning. forums/images/graemlins/smile.gifĮDIT: Confirmed. My guess from the circuit is it may dim, but not go out. Not only have I checked the circuit diagram, but I'll also watch my glow plug light the next time I start my tractor and I'll purposefully go to start before the cycle is over to see if the glowplug light immediately extinguishes. The battery feeds the starter directly through the solenoid switch and the glow plug relay connects the glow plugs to the main supply 40 amp circuit, but they will both be connected if you go to start immediately with the key switch. Yes, the wiring is heavy, and yes this puts a load on the battery which is exactly why I do not start the engine until the preheat cycle is over. There is an internal bus bar between position 2 and 3 on the key switch to ensure power is available to the glow plugs until the glow plug timer stops (times out). If the glowplug timer has not run down (only 4 to 5 seconds on a deluxe model, 10 seconds on an economy model) the glow plugs are still powered when the key switch is turned to start. Now I've done that and I stick by my original post. Max, I would not just answer your question based on what I thought without checking my manual. Besides that the wiring would have to be very heavy. That would flatn the battery very and the fuses won't like that either. I don't think the glow plugs (and other accessories) are getting any juice, while you are actually cranking over the engine (or at least are not supposed to). I have to disagree with you there (and that is very rare what I read so far from your posts). Intermittent electrical problems are the pits. I try to consciously not start the engine while the glowplugs are preheating.
My glowplugs only stay on for about 10 seconds and then go off. You'd think four would pull a lot more current than the three in your 33D, but maybe there is just that much difference in the load in other areas or the type of glowplugs. My tractor is a 4-cyl and has 4 glowplugs. Other than that, I don't know what to suggest.
That can also cause intermittent surges and problems. The other thing to check is corroded terminals.
If the battery is not supplying full voltage, that has been responsible for the blown fuse in several Class III models. If it's below 12 volts, I'd be suspicious that I had a cell going bad. I think I'd start by checking the battery voltage when the batter is overnight cold. forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I put a 10 amp in my tractor and that cured my problem however, my tractor is different and maybe just enough. Steve, you are the first person I've heard of to blow a 10 amp fuse in that circuit.